The story of a wave: from wind-blown ripples to breaking on the beach
- Written by Shane Keating, Senior Lecturer in Mathematics and Oceanography, UNSW
By the time a wave reaches shore, it may have travelled tens of thousands of kilometres.Ian Mitchinson / Shutterstock
It’s a cliché, but Aussies love the beach. And little wonder: with 36,000 kilometres of coastline, Australia is blessed with some of the best beaches in the world.
Around 20 million Australians live within 50 kilometres...
Read more: The story of a wave: from wind-blown ripples to breaking on the beach